Author Archives: Linda Peek

Chicken Lady Chicken

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While living in Paris for four years I noticed several differences in the shopping, eating and cooking habits of the French, compared with ours.

They generally don’t stock up on food in big supermarkets. Living in an apartment, as almost everyone does in big cities like Paris, makes getting groceries from the supermarket into your home a real challenge. With limited parking and, for some Parisians, no elevator, it’s much easier to shop at the local markets every few days. Buy what you need, eat it fresh, then go and buy more. Little trolleys on wheels are perfect for shopping this way. An added deterrent to buying up big is that most Paris apartments have tiny kitchens with limited cupboard and freezer space.

I reckon one of the reasons most French women stay slim is that they don’t eat a big meal every evening. Several svelte French friends told me that during the week their husbands went out for a three course lunch and were quite happy with something very light in the evening. Women who work do the same. So as I was heading home to cook our main meal of the day, they were going home to have “un petit yaourt” or “une tartine” – a slice of toast with something on it.

I also noticed that the French don’t get stuck into baguettes and French cheeses quite the way we do. I’ve watched lithesome French friends make one slice of bread last through several courses, used as required to push food onto their fork. The cheese course is always served before the dessert and my svelte French friends take only a small sliver of each. French cheeses are marvellous, but they are also high in calories and cholesterol.

The French also tend to be more abstemious when it comes to wine consumption, as we noted when we cleared up the empties after a dinner party for mainly French guests and compared it with the week before when we had hosted mainly Aussies.

While they regularly eat out, our French friends like to entertain family and close friends. With the limitations of a small kitchen and an equally small oven, dessert often comes from the local patisserie. With such a wonderful array to choose from, why bother cooking? There are of course exceptions. I have several French friends who make wonderful cakes and desserts, using recipes inherited from their mothers and grandmothers.

Food markets pop up all over Paris in regular spots, once or twice a week. The twice-weekly market in Boulevard de Grenelle was less than five minutes walk from where we lived. Every Wednesday and Sunday from seven in the morning until lunch time the market sells fresh fruit and vegetables, cheese, meat, fish and more to a bustling crowd of mostly French customers.

On Sundays the rotisserie chickens and roast potatoes sold at the markets are popular to take home for lunch. Today’s recipe comes from well-known cook and food writer David Lebovitz who has been living in Paris for over 20 years. He managed to persuade the chicken lady at his local market to part with her recipe. Hence the name Chicken Lady Chicken. He uses the marinade for one chicken, but I found it’s enough for two. She uses white wine but red wine or even sherry is a good substitute.

1 or 2  x 1.5kg (3 lb) chickens
Marinade:
3 cloves garlic, crushed
1½ tsp salt
2 Tbs olive oil
2 Tbs lemon juice
2 Tbs wine or sherry
1 Tbs soy sauce
2½ tsp harissa, Sriracha or other chilli paste
2 tsp Dijon or other mustard
2 tsp honey

Remove backbone from the chicken(s) by cutting along each side with a pair of poultry shears. Place chicken breast side down on cutting board and press hard with the heel of your hand to flatten it out as much as possible, then repeat on the other side. Loosen the skin a bit with your finger so the marinade can get in under the skin.

Mix all ingredients for marinade and pour over the chicken(s), rubbing it in and pushing it under the skin. Marinate for 1 to 2 days in the fridge, covered, turning from time to time. Levovitz does this in a plastic bag, but I used a shallow dish.

Preheat the oven to 200°C. Place chickens in a roasting pan breast side down. Cover loosely with aluminum foil then place a heavy weight on top. I used two bricks, one for each chicken. Lebovitz cooks his chicken for a total of 45 mins but I think it needs a bit longer. Roast for half an hour, then remove the brick(s) and foil and turn the chickens over, basting thoroughly. Roast for a further half hour or until chickens are well browned and cooked through.

Carve the chicken(s) and serve with roast potatoes and a salad.

Each chicken serves 4-6

Beef Bourguignon

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My friend Katie said she made beef bourguignon the other day and had to throw it out because the meat was still tough despite hours of cooking.

I said I would give her my recipe which I’ve been making for years. I always make it in my slow cooker, but you can cook it in the oven if you prefer.

As you can see from the photo, this is not fancy food. Full of flavour, beef bourguignon makes perfect comfort food for mid-winter dining, especially with the cold snap we’re currently experiencing in Canberra.

1kg to 1.5kg lean beef cut into 2-3cm cubes (I use chuck steak)
3 Tbs flour, seasoned
2 Tbs olive oil
50g butter
100g speck cut into thick slices then chunky little pieces
1 onion, chopped
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 leek sliced
S and P
3 Tbs brandy
bouquet garni or equivalent mix of herbs (see note below)
1 cup red wine
1 Tbs tomato paste
1-2 cups beef stock
Garnish:
12-16 shallots or very small onions, peeled, left whole
12-16 button mushrooms, wiped and trimmed
30g butter, extra
½ tsp sugar
3 tsp lemon juice
2 Tbs chopped parsley
To serve:
Steamed carrots and mashed potatoes

When cutting up the meat it’s ok to leave a bit of fat and tendons as these will cook down in the casserole. Just remove any excess.

Coat meat in seasoned flour, shaking off excess. Cook bacon in a large frying pan without any added oil until browned then place in a large ovenproof casserole or the bowl of a Slow Cooker, leaving the oil in the pan. Add half the olive oil and half the butter to the frying pan and brown the meat in two batches. When the second batch is brown, add the brandy, set alight (turn off the extractor fan first) and when the flames subside add to the casserole with the meat and juices from the frying pan.

Add remaining oil and butter to frying pan and cook, garlic, onion and leek for a few minutes, stirring until softened. Add to casserole with remaining ingredients, using just enough stock to almost cover. You will need less stock if you are using a Slow Cooker rather than the oven, so add a cup now and you can add more later if necessary. In my Slow Cooker I only need 1 cup of stock and don’t need to add more.

Cover and bake in the oven at 150°C for 1.5 to 2 hours or until meat is tender, adding more beef stock if necessary when you check it after an hour or so. It will take longer in a Slow Cooker and time will depend on how tender the meat is and whether you put the cooker on Low or High. In my Slow Cooker it takes 4 hours on High.

Garnish: heat extra butter in a small frying pan and cook the onions gently until soft and browned. Add sugar and continue cooking, stirring frequently, until glazed. Add mushrooms (halved or quartered if large) and continue to cook for a few mins, stirring, then add lemon juice. Just before serving mix onions and mushrooms into casserole. Meanwhile steam the carrots, sliced if large or whole if small. When tender drain and add a knob of butter, S and P. Cook the potatoes and mash with butter and a little milk.

Adjust seasoning in the casserole and remove bouquet garni. Serve the casserole with the carrots and the creamy mashed potatoes on the side. Sprinkle chopped parsley over the beef.

Serves 8

Note: a bouquet garni is a bunch of fresh herbs tied with a piece of string and removed from the dish just before serving. Usually it consists of bay leaves, thyme and parsley. Instead you can add some chopped fresh herbs or dried herbs.

Ten days in Portugal

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We’ve just spent our first holiday in Portugal, sandwiched between a week in the UK and ten days in France.

On arrival in Porto, Portugal’s second largest city, we picked up a car and headed north to mozey around the Douro River Valley. Picturesque terraced vineyards flank both sides of the river and the area became a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2001. These man-made terraces carved into the steep banks of the river have been producing world-famous wines, particularly fortified port wine, since the 17th century.

Many of the most influential and well-known port wine houses, such as Taylor’s and Sandeman, were founded by British families. Today a significant number of the major port brands are still British in origin, but ownership and production are mostly Portuguese or international.

Porto Tónico quickly became my favourite tipple to sip while watching the sun go down. It’s made like a gin and tonic, using white port instead of gin. I had never heard of white port but on return to Australia found that it’s available in most large bottle shops. Add tonic or soda water, or a combination, depending how sweet you like things. Garnish with a slice of orange – or some orange peel removed with a vegetable peeler – a sprig of fresh mint if available and lots of ice.

The vineyard estates are called quintas. Most do wine tastings and some have restaurants. The highlight of a delicious lunch at the Quinta de Bomfin was Crème Brulée (my favourite dessert) served with carrot and ginger ice cream which was flavoured with grated tonka beans. Yes I had to look them up too!

A river trip from Pinhão is the best way to experience the Douro Valley, with views of the historic quintas and tranquil river landscapes. Some of these river boat cruises last several hours and include lunch, but we went on a one hour trip.

We returned the car when we got back to Porto, where we then spent two nights. There’s plenty to do in this vibrant city, from climbing 225 steps of the Torre dos Clérigos to get a panoramic view of the city, to walking along the top level of the Dom Luis Bridge, designed by a disciple of Gustave Eiffel, to watch the sun go down.

A good find in Porto was Mistu, a restaurant serving modernised international and Mediterranean dishes and great cocktails. We had a selection of cold starters and the stand out was the Seared Butterfish with Foie Gras, Wakame and Ponzu Sauce.

From Porto we caught the train to Lisbon, a scenic journey which takes about three hours. We were there for three nights – enough time to catch up with Portuguese friends for dinner in their house and to discover a couple of delightful eateries. Cervejaria Ramiro is famous for fresh seafood, cooked simply and served at long tables where everyone sits together. We were told we had to book online and found that the only time slot available for lunch or dinner was 3pm. We turned up at 2.15pm and asked the girl at the door (with our saddest famished faces) if we might come in earlier than our reservation. “Sem problemas” she said and took us to join some Americans at a long table which had several spare seats.

I don’t know why it was so hard to get a booking online as there were several empty tables in this bustling establishment. This is not somewhere you go for a burger or steak and there’s a minimum charge of 25 Euros a head which you pay when you book. Huge tiger prawns cooked on a bed of salt were to die for.  Conversation with our new American friends, who were from Washington DC, was lively.

The extensive tram system is a good way to see the city. There’s also an underground system as well as buses and little motorised tourist buggies, plus of course lots of walking. On our last evening we enjoyed a delicious selection of starters and side dishes at a little bistro in Praca das Flores called O’ Bistro – toasted brioche with foie gras and poached pear, French fries with truffle mayonnaise, devilled eggs and, to finish, we shared a decadent dark chocolate mousse garnished with a few flakes of sea salt and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.

Portuguese tarts are there to tempt you on every street corner. My recipe may not be as authentic as some Portuguese tart recipes, but they’re delicious and very quick to make using bought puff pastry. Click on the link for the recipe, photo above.

Sago Plum Pudding

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Sago Plum Pudding, an old-fashioned dessert made from simple ingredients, is one of my all-time favourites. I think its origins must be Antipodean as I never came across it when I was growing up in England. Some in our family see it as an excuse to eat Brandy Butter when it’s not Christmas. I’ve never been a big fan of Brandy Butter and prefer it with thick, unsweetened cream.

If you like, make individual half cup puddings rather than one large one – see Note below.

This recipe came from my mother-in-law.photo

¾ cup sago
2 cups milk
180g butter
½ cup sugar
2 cups sultanas or mixed dried fruit
2 cups breadcrumbs (made in food processor from day old bread)
2 eggs, beaten
2 tsp bicarbonate of soda
Pinch of salt
2 tsp mixed spice
To serve:
Brandy Butter, thick cream or custard

Soak sago in milk overnight. Place butter in a mixing bowl and zap in the microwave to melt. Mix in remaining ingredients then scrape into a one litre pudding bowl, lightly buttered. Cover with a piece of buttered foil, buttered side down and place in a large saucepan on something to lift the bowl slightly. A metal trivet, old saucer or a small brick will do. Add boiling water to come halfway up bowl. Cover with the saucepan lid, bring to the boil and steam steadily for 3-3½ hours, adding more water as necessary. The top of the pudding will have an even dark brown colour when ready – lift foil from time to time to check. Stand for 5 minutes then turn out, cut into slices and serve with thick cream, Brandy Butter or custard.

Serves 8-10

Note: make individual puddings in 8-10 half cup ramekins, dariole moulds or Chinese teacups, lightly buttered, as shown in the second photo. Fill almost to the top as they don’t rise much. Place in a shallow ovenproof dish and add boiling water to come halfway up the cups. Cover the whole dish with a sheet of foil, buttered side down. Bake at 160°C for an hour to an hour and a half, or until evenly rich brown on top. Tip out and serve immediately or store covered in the fridge and reheat for about a minute in the microwave, covered in plastic wrap, then tip out.

Chicken in a Pot with Pasta

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This delicious one pot recipe comes from one of my favourite no-nonsense cooks, Nigella Lawson. As the chicken, leeks and carrots cook they create a delicious stock which soaks into the pasta. Nigella uses a very small pasta called Orzo or Risoni, which looks a bit like grains of rice. I only had a small amount of Risoni at the bottom of a packet, so I made up the difference with another small pasta.

The recipe will serve at least six. We had it on its own, but you could always add a crusty loaf and a green salad to feed more people. Choose a large heavy pot with a lid which will hold the chicken, with room around it for the vegetables and pasta. Mine is an oval Le Creuset casserole (from the 1970s, when orange was a very popular colour!) which can be used on the stove top as well as in the oven. Nigella uses dried tarragon, but as I have fresh in the garden at the moment I used that.


1 Tbs olive oil
1 whole chicken (1.5 – 1.7 kg)
3 large cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 leeks (the white part and some of the green) sliced
2 large carrots, cut into sticks
Finely grated rind and juice of 1 large lemon
2 Tbs fresh tarragon, chopped (or 2 tsp dried)
2 tsp salt
½ tsp dried chilli flakes (optional)
1L to 1.5L cold water
300g Risoni or other small pasta
6 Tbs chopped parsley
To serve:
Freshly grated Parmesan

Preheat oven to 180°C and prepare the vegetables. Heat the oil in a large heavy-based casserole with a lid. Dry chicken with paper towels and place in the pan, breast side down, for 3-5 minutes, or until nicely browned. Turn the chicken over and then add the garlic, lemon rind and juice, tarragon, salt and chilli flakes, if using, filling the space around the chicken. Add enough water to cover the vegetables, but not the browned chicken breast which should be left sticking out of the liquid. Turn up the heat to bring the liquid to the boil, then cover the casserole and place in the oven for an hour to an hour and a quarter, by which time the chicken will be cooked. Add the pasta, pushing it under the liquid and stirring it as best you can.

Cover and return to the oven for 15 minutes or until the pasta is cooked. Remove from the oven and leave to stand for 15 minutes before serving. Mix in some of the parsley and scatter the rest on top. Serve a bowl of grated Parmesan on the side.

Serves 6-8

Note: if you don’t have a casserole dish which can be used on the stove top, brown the chicken breast in a frying pan, then put it into the casserole with the remaining ingredients and add boiling water instead of cold.

Spinach and Feta Pastries

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This recipe is one of my most popular posts, so here it is again. I’m travelling in Europe so there will be a few repeat posts while I’m away.

These are a great addition to lunch boxes, picnics and buffet lunches. They are also great to serve with drinks. Most kids love them and it’s a good way to get them to eat more green veggies.

Once cooked and cooled, if not serving immediately, you can keep them in the fridge for a few days or freeze them. They will just need a few minutes in a hot oven or an air fryer to heat up.

1-2 sheets bought puff pastry
Filling:
About 225g frozen chopped spinach, thawed (I used half a 450g pkt of spinach nuggets)
100g feta cheese, crumbled
¾ cup thinly sliced spring onions
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 egg
1 Tbs olive oil
1 Tbs chopped fresh parsley
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Extra:
1 beaten egg to brush

Preheat oven to 200°C. Squeeze any liquid from the spinach then mix it with remaining filling ingredients. Cut out 12 squares of puff pastry, approximately 8cm or 3 inches square. I got nine from one sheet of ready-rolled puff pastry.

Lightly but thoroughly (mine got a bit stuck!) oil a 12-hole muffin pan and place a pastry square in each. Place a rounded tablespoonful of filling in each, then go back and use the rest to top them up. If you have too much you could use another muffin pan and make a couple more but I found the mixture made exactly 12.

Pull the four pastry points over the top of the filling and pinch lightly together. Brush with beaten egg, then bake for 20 minutes or until golden. Serve warm or at room temperature. Can be kept in the fridge for 2-3 days and reheated for a few minutes in a hot oven or frozen.

Makes 12

Feta and Spring Onion Bouikos

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The Middle East’s answer to cheese straws, these feta and spring onion bouikos are delicious. The recipe, slightly tweaked, came from a UK restaurant called Honey & Co.

Bouikos can be prepared ahead and left in the fridge until just before guests are due to arrive. They are at their best served warm, not quite so good at room temperature and should definitely be eaten on the day they are made. I doubt very much that you will have any leftover, but if you do please send them round here.

I’ve made them twice and used feta and cheddar both times, but I plan to try using other cheeses, such as a blue cheese and ricotta. You could even try adding some finely diced bacon.

2 spring onions
50g cold butter cut into four
40g grated sharp cheddar (about ¼ cup)
40g feta (about ¼ cup)
¾ cup plain flour
Good pinch salt
¼ cup sour cream
Nigella or Poppy seeds (optional)

Preheat oven to 180°C unless you are making these ahead and planning to refrigerate them till serving time. Line a baking tray with baking paper.

Place spring onions in a food processor and process to chop. Add remaining ingredients and process until mixture forms a ball, then stop the motor. Tip out onto a lightly floured surface then pat out or roll out to a rectangle with a thickness of about 1 cm. If using, sprinkle with Nigella or poppy seeds. Cut into 12 squares, then cut each square into two triangles. Arrange slightly apart on baking sheet then bake for about 15 minutes, turning the tray halfway through to ensure even colouring.

Makes about 24

Baked Beef and Onions

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I have quite a collection of individual dishes and found these oval ones in a secondhand shop.  They are ideal for freezing individual servings of lasagne, chicken parmigiano or baked beef and onions, a dish I often make the day after we have roast beef, to use up the leftover meat and gravy.

The photo looks a bit oily and I suppose it is a bit of a high cholesterol dish – but it’s low in carbs and really delicious!  Any leftovers make a great filling for a toasted sandwich.

Baked Beef and Onions

About 400g leftover roast beef, thinly sliced
2 onions, thinly sliced
1 Tbs butter
1 Tbs olive oil
½ to one cup leftover gravy (see below)
½ cup grated cheddar cheese (or a mixture of leftover bits!)

Arrange sliced beef in a shallow ovenproof dish or 4 individual dishes, lightly greased.  In a frying pan heat butter and oil and saute onions over gentle heat until rich golden and quite tender. Add gravy then spread over the beef. Cover with grated cheese. Can be made ahead to this stage and kept covered, in the fridge, for a day or so.  Or you can freeze them.  Bake 20-25 mins at 200°C or until golden.  Serve with a green vegetable or salad.

Serves 4

Note: if you don’t have quite enough gravy add a dash of cream and a dash of tomato ketchup, but avoid adding water as the result will be watery.

Nana’s gravy: remove the roast (chicken, beef, lamb, pork or whatever) from the roasting pan and keep warm, covered loosely with foil.  Discard all but 2-3 Tbs of fat from the roasting pan, keeping all the brown bits.  Place pan over gas flame, add 2-3 Tbs plain flour and cook, stirring with a wooden spatula, for 2-3 mins or until flour is cooked.  Gradually add 2 cups water, 2 Tbs dry sherry, 2 Tbs cream (Nana used the top of the milk), and a good pinch sugar.  Taste the gravy adding salt and pepper to taste.  If the gravy lacks a bit of flavour or looks a bit pale you can add a stock cube.  The good old Oxo was used a lot in England back then to add colour and flavour to beef gravies and casseroles. Normally the gravy will taste fine without, but sometimes with a particularly lean piece of roast beef and insufficient pan juices I have been known to cheat a bit.  Sometimes half a beef Oxo cube is just what’s required to give a bit of colour.  Let gravy simmer while you carve the meat, adding a bit more water as necessary to keep it the right consistency.  Push it through a sieve if you want it to be perfect gravy without any bits.  For family I usually don’t bother.

Hot Smoked Salmon & Pea Salad

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Peas are pretty much the only vegetable I always buy frozen. We don’t grow our own peas as they would take up too much room in our vegetable garden. In Australia you rarely see fresh peas in the supermarkets or vegetable shops.

To be honest I reckon frozen peas aren’t at all bad. Not the same as fresh peas but a pretty good substitute.

This tasty salad will appeal to fans of peas as it’s the main ingredient.

3 cups frozen peas
250-300g hot smoked salmon
1 clove garlic, crushed
A handful of chopped fresh parsley or mint or a mixture
4 radishes, sliced then halved
80g soft goat’s cheese (I used Danish feta) crumbled
12 cocktail tomatoes, halved or quartered, depending on size
2-3 spring onions, finely sliced
2 Tbs olive oil
Juice of 1 lemon or ½ a large lemon
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Cook peas in boiling salted water for 4 minutes, then drain. Place in a large bowl with the salmon, broken into flakes, skin discarded. Add remaining ingredients, mix and serve.

Serves 4-6

Pan Fried Chorizo, Octopus & Sweet Potatoes with Chimichurri & Aioli

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This recipe was inspired by a dish being served by my favourite lunch time bistro in Canberra,

Deakin & Me is in my suburb which is called Deakin, and it ticks all the boxes. The food is interesting, healthy and delicious. The staff are friendly and efficient and they don’t mind splitting the bill for groups. They only do breakfast, brunch and lunch and the place is always full.

I didn’t order this dish, but one of my friends sitting next to me did. I looked delicious and she confirmed that it was. I made a note of the ingredients in order to make it at home.

Cooked, vacuum packed octopus can be found in Costco and I used sweet potatoes instead of ordinary potatoes. Chimichurri is a South American salsa. Any leftover can be served to add a bit of zing to steak, chicken, fish or fried eggs.

1 sweet potato (see variations)
2 tsp paprika
200g cooked octopus, sliced
1 chorizo sausage, sliced
4 slices sourdough bread, lightly toasted
4 eggs
Olive oil
Aioli:
½ cup mayonnaise (preferably home made)
2-3 tsp lemon juice
1 clove garlic, crushed
Chimichurri:
2 Tbs finely chopped parsley
1 small red chilli, very finely diced (with or without the seeds)
½ cup olive oil
2 Tbs red wine vinegar
Salt and pepper to taste
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 tsp dried oregano or 1 Tbs fresh oregano or marjoram, chopped
¼ of a red onion, finely diced
Pinch of sugar

Make the Aioli by mixing the ingredients together. Make the Chimichurri by mixing the ingredients together. Don’t use a food processor you will end up with mush.

Peel the sweet potato and cut it into 2cm cubes. Mix with a tablespoon of olive oil, the paprika and salt to taste. Cook in an air fryer or a hot oven (spread out on a paper lined tray) until lightly browned and cooked.

Heat a little olive oil in a large frying pan. Add the octopus and chorizo and stir fry for 5-8 minutes or until the chorizo is lightly browned. Add some of the sweet potato cubes so there’s about the same amount of them as of the chorizo and octopus. You will have some sweet potato left over. Stir for a minute or two to combine.

Meanwhile, in another frying pan, fry the eggs in a little olive oil (serve them sunny side up) and toast the sourdough.

Divide the octopus, chorizo and sweet potato amongst the slices of toast, with the fried egg on top or on the side. Add a good dollop of aioli and a few spoonfuls of chimichurri to the plates.

Serve immediately.

Serves 4

Variations: use cooked ordinary potatoes cut into chunks instead of sweet potatoes.