Lamb on the BBQ

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With a growing family, we had two Christmas lunches this year.  With visitors from overseas, it was simply impossible to do everyone on one day.

For the second family gathering I decided to barbecue a boned leg of lamb, using a recipe from the December edition of Delicious magazine.  It’s one of the best food magazines on the market and I have a subscription.  Always full of inspiring ideas.  Here is my slightly adapted version which was delicious.  Boning a leg of lamb is not as hard as it looks – just keep cutting the meat away from the bone at one end, then start on the other end and eventually you will meet up and be able to pull it out!  The magazine suggested serving the lamb with a cucumber, tomato and spinach salad, with a lemony dressing, topped with toasted sesame seeds, which went very well.  The recipe called for Harissa, which I didn’t have, but Sambal Oelek was a perfect substitute.

Chermoula Lamb with Yoghurt Dressing

1 large leg of lamb, boned
Marinade:
4 cloves garlic
2 tsp ground coriander
2 tsp ground cumin
A handful of fresh coriander
A handful of fresh mint
2 Tbs Harissa or Sambal Oelek (both are chilli pastes)
Grated rind and juice of 1 lemon
2 Tbs olive oil
Dressing:
250g thick Greek-style yoghurt
A handful of chopped fresh mint
2 preserved lemon quarters
Garnish:
A few fresh coriander sprigs
A few slivers of preserved lemon, extra

After removing the bone from the lamb, cut through the part where it’s still joined, so you can open the meat out flat.  Place in a ceramic dish.  Place dressing ingredients in food processor and process until smooth.  Pour over lamb, turn to coat thoroughly.  Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate several hours or overnight.

Next day remove meat from marinade and cook on a medium to hot BBQ until done to liking.  If you leave the meat spread out some parts will be quite thin, so they will be rather well done by the time the thicker bits are cooked.  So if you prefer your meat medium-rare, use some kitchen string to form it back into a round shape with the skin on the outside.  As the meat is cooking, baste regularly with remaining marinade.  If the meat has been left spread out it will take 15-20 minutes each side.  If reformed into a round shape with string, it will take about an hour.  A meat thermometer is a good investment for getting it right.

Let the meat rest, covered loosely with foil, for about 10 minutes then slice thinly and arrange on a serving platter.  Garnish with the coriander and a few slivers of preserved lemon.  Serve yoghurt dressing separately.

Dressing:  Rinse the lemon quarters, discarding the pulpy part.  Finely chop the skin, then mix into the yoghurt with the mint.

Serves 8-10

Roast Fillet of Beef with Fresh Herb Dressing

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Last week my friend Ferne asked me what we were having for Christmas lunch.  I said we were having a cold buffet and mentioned a recipe for roast beef with a fresh herb dressing that I was thinking of doing from an old Women’s Weekly cookbook.   It’s perfect for a summer buffet.

I haven’t made it for quite some time but said I would dig it out.  Ferne said if you find it, please send it to me.  I have about 30 Women’s Weekly cookbooks – they were all the rage in the 70s and 80s – and typically it was in the last one I opened, called Celebration Cookbook.  Here is my slightly adapted version.

Roast Beef with Fresh Herb Dressing

1 whole beef eye fillet, weighing 1.5-1.8kg, trimmed of fat and sinew
 1 Tbs whole black peppercorns, coarsely crushed
30g butter
2 Tbs vegetable oil
Whole flat parsley leaves to garnish
Dressing:
1 Tbs chopped parsley
1 Tbs chopped fresh chives
3 green (spring) onions, thinly sliced on the diagonal
2 tsp chopped fresh tarragon or 1 tsp dried
1 Tbs capers, chopped if large
2 tsp drained canned green peppercorns
1 tsp hot English mustard
1/2 cup tarragon or white wine vinegar
1/2 cup vegetable oil or olive oil
1 tsp sugar

Preheat oven to 180°C.  Trim beef, tie into a neat shape with string. Roll in peppercorns and press them in.  Heat butter and oil in a roasting pan.  Add beef and cook briefly all over until sealed.   Place beef in the oven and bake for about 25-30 minutes for medium-rare, or until cooked to liking.  A meat thermometer is useful for getting it right and should read 55°C for medium-rare.  Remove from the oven, cool to room temperature, remove string.  Slice beef thinly and arrange on serving dish in overlapping rows.  Top with dressing, garnish with parsley leaves.  Serve remaining dressing separately.

Dressing: Place all ingredients in a jam jar with a lid and shake vigorously.

Serves 10-12 as part of a buffet.

Note: Beef can be cooked and dressing made the day before serving.  Store both in the fridge well covered.

Saturday lunch in the garden

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In the warmer months we like to have Saturday lunch in the garden, under the shade of our olive tree.  With a red and white check tablecloth and a bottle of chilled Sauvignon Blanc, you can almost imagine you’re in a little bistro in the south of France.

When you have time it’s nice to have something a bit more exotic for lunch than the usual weekday sandwich, so today I made some potato cakes and served them with smoked salmon and a mustard sauce.

Smoked Salmon with Potato Cakes, Mustard Sauce and Chives

4 medium to large potatoes
1 tsp salt
2 Tbs plain flour
1 egg
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
4 or 8 slices smoked salmon (depending on appetite!)
1-2 Tbs snipped chives or dill
50g butter
2 Tbs olive oil
Mustard Sauce:
1/2 cup sour cream
1 tsp hot English mustard
3 tsp grainy mustard
1 tsp honey (optional)

Coarsely grate potatoes, place them in a sieve and sprinkle with salt.  Leave for 20 minutes or so, mixing with your hand from time to time.  Place potatoes in a clean tea towel then use it to squeeze out as much liquid as you can.  In a bowl mix potatoes with flour, egg and pepper. In another small dish, mix all the ingredients for the sauce together.

Heat half the oil with half the butter in a large frying pan.  Use about half the potato mixture to make four pancakes.  Cook over a medium heat for 3-4 minutes each side or until golden brown and cooked through.  Drain on paper towels.  Heat remaining butter and oil and repeat with the rest of the mixture to make another 4 pancakes.  Place two pancakes on each of four plates, slightly overlapping.  Top with smoked salmon, folded decoratively into the rough shape of a rose and concealing any darker parts underneath.  Top with a dollop of sauce and sprinkle with chives or dill.

Serves 4

Curry in a Slow Cooker

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When it comes to cooking I’m always looking for short cuts.  Not because I don’t like it – quite the opposite – but I just don’t seem to have as much time to devote to the kitchen as my paternal grandmother Jessie did.  I know she managed without a washing machine or a dishwasher and kept her own chickens.  But most of her supplies were delivered to the door (actually I don’t think she could drive) and she didn’t do emails, Facebook or a blog.

I’ve always been a great fan of slow cookers.  Perfect for days when you want to come home and find something ready for dinner which has been looking after itself for hours.  You hardly even have to stir the food – just once in a while to see how it’s going.

I’ve had my slow cooker – which is called a Crock Pot – for over 30 years and wouldn’t part with it for quids. If you keep your eyes open you can sometimes pick one up for a song in a secondhand shop. I often convert recipes intended for conventional cooking and make them in the slow cooker.  The main rule is to cut down drastically on the amount of liquid – start with very little – you can always add more.

This beef korma is adapted from a recipe by Michael Pandya in his Complete Indian Cookbook first published in 1980.  My grandmother Jessie, who gave me my first cooking lessons when I was eleven, always put a teaspoon of salt into anything sweet and a teaspoon of sugar into anything savoury, to bring out the flavour, so I always do the same.

Beef Korma

2 large onions
4 Tbs ghee or vegetable oil
50g blanched almonds
50g fresh ginger, peeled
1 tsp salt
1 Tbs coriander seeds, ground in a mortar and pestle, or use ready-ground
1 Tbs cumin seeds, ground in a mortar and pestle, or use ready-ground
8 whole cloves, ground in a mortar and pestle, or use 1/2 tsp ground
8 black peppercorns, ground in a mortar and pestle, or use 1/2 tsp ground
1-2 tsp chilli powder, to taste
1 tsp sugar
2 tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp garam masala
1 kg stewing beef, such as chuck steak, trimmed and cut into 2-3cm cubes
1 cup thick plain yoghurt
1 cup water
Fresh coriander, chopped and 2 Tbs extra plain yoghurt, to garnish

Peel onions, halve then slice.  Fry gently in a large frying pan in half the oil.  When soft place in the slow cooker.  In a food processor, process remaining ingredients except meat, yoghurt, water and coriander.  Add remaining oil to frying pan and when hot fry the meat, stirring constantly, until browned.  If your pan is not sufficiently hot it’s better to brown the meat in two batches.  Add the spice mixture and stir to coat thoroughly.  Keep cooking and stirring until the spices smell fragrant.  Place meat in slow cooker with yoghurt and half the water.  Turn the slow cooker on high, cover and cook for 4 hours or until meat is tender, adding the remaining water if necessary and stirring from time to time.  If preferred you can cook for about 7 hours on low.  If you have to go out it’s a good idea to turn it to low as it can look after itself for hours at that temperature.  Before serving, taste to see if it needs more salt.

Garnish with a swirl of yoghurt and the coriander and serve with steamed rice, Indian bread and maybe an Indian chutney or pickle.  A side dish of Cucumber Raita (cucumber and plain yoghurt) goes well.  There are plenty of recipes online.

Serves 8-10

Preparing ahead

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The secret to stress-free entertaining is having as much as possible prepared before the guests arrived.  Last night two couples we hadn’t seen for some time joined us for dinner, so I chose a menu which involved a couple of hours of preparation, but would leave me free to enjoy their company.

We started off with Prawn, Avocado and Tomato Tian with Green Shallot Dressing, adapted from a recipe by Curtis Stone which uses crab rather than prawns.  Crab is expensive and often difficult to find, whereas cooked prawns are readily available and often on special.  I had all the elements ready in the fridge and just had to assemble the tians before we sat down.  In Curtis Stone’s recipe he used beefsteak tomatoes and managed to cut circles for the tops of the tians.  My tomatoes weren’t big enough, so I had to use several pieces.

Prawn, Avocado and Tomato Tian with Green Shallot Dressing

Prawn Layer
1 kg cooked prawns, shelled and deveined (about 500g shelled weight)
Juice of 1/2 a lemon or one lime
2 Tbs mayonnaise, preferably home-made
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Avocado Layer
3 ripe avocados
1/2 red onion, very finely chopped
Juice of 1/2 a lemon or one lime
2 Tbs mayonnaise, preferably home-made
1 small red chilli, seeded and finely chopped (optional)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Tomato Layer:
6-8 large ripe tomatoes
Salt flakes, such as Maldon
Olive oil
Green Shallot Dressing
4 spring onions, mostly the green tops
1 cup vegetable oil
1/4 cup white wine or white balsamic vinegar
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Place prawns in food processor.  Pulse a few times to chop roughly but still leave some large chunky bits.  Mix with remaining ingredients for prawn layer, cover and refrigerate until serving time.  Peel and dice avocados and mix with remaining ingredients, cover and refrigerate.  Cover tomatoes with boiling water for 1-2 minutes.  Refresh under a cold tap, then cut a cross on the bottoms and remove skins.  Cut tops off the tomatoes – just far enough down so you get rid of where the stalk was – then remove all seeds and pulp and discard.  It’s easier to do this if you make a cut down the side of the tomato.  You should be left with just the outer layer of each tomato in one large piece which you can flatten out.  Place on a plate lined with paper towel and refrigerate.  Place all ingredients for dressing in food processor, process until smooth, then place in a small jug or a bottle with a squirty top.

Just before serving time use stacking rings to assemble the tians – prawn layer, then avocado layer.  If you’re only making six servings you will have some prawn and avocado leftover.  Lastly cut pieces of tomato to cover the top – doesn’t matter if it’s like a jigsaw puzzle.  Brush tomato with a little olive oil and sprinkle with a few flakes of salt.  Drizzle some dressing around each tian, lift off the rings and serve.

Serves 6-8

For the main course I served lamb cutlets with mint pesto.  Crunchy roast potatoes and pea puree went down well with this.  Boil the halved potatoes until they are almost done, then drain, place on baking paper on an oven tray and spray with oil.  You can do them ahead to this stage, then just bake for about half an hour or so in a hot oven until brown and crispy.  For the peas boil half a kilo of frozen peas in salted water.  When tender blitz in the food processor with a lump of butter and about 2 Tbs of cream.  Season to taste then push the puree through a sieve.  This can also be done ahead and reheated in the microwave in a covered bowl.  For each serving put a circle of pea puree in the centre of the plate, then arrange two potatoes (propped up against each other looks good) and two lamb cutlets on top,  with a blob of mint pesto on each cutlet.   You will have to cook the cutlets at the last minute but they don’t take long.  Just season then pan fry in a tiny amount of olive oil for 2-3 minutes each side.

Mint Pesto

1 bunch mint, washed, leaves removed
2 Tbs grated Parmesan cheese
1/3 cup pine nuts
2 tsp honey
1 clove garlic, crushed
Between 1/4 and 1/2 cup olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 Tbs white balsamic vinegar or lemon juice

Place mint, Parmesan, pine nuts, honey and garlic in food processor and process until chunky, stopping once to scrape down the sides.  Add oil through the feed chute with the motor running.  Stop when you have a thick spoonable pesto, then lastly add vinegar or lemon juice and seasoning to taste.  It should be slightly chunky, not completely smooth.  Place pesto in a small bowl, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate.  The top with darken, but if you give it a quick mix it will be a nice bright green when you serve it.

We finished off with individual Pineapple and Pepper Tarte Tatins – the usual butter and sugar caramel, but the pineapple rings were seasoned with coarsely ground black pepper – served with vanilla icecream.

Chicken Terrine with Herbs and Pink Peppercorns

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A terrine is handy to have in the fridge over the holiday period.  Serve as a light lunch or starter with salad, or as part of a buffet.  My terrine dish is made from glazed pottery and holds 3 liters.  It has a lid and was made in France.  A metal or silicone loaf pan will do.  You can use pink peppercorns in brine or the dry ones which I buy from The Essential Ingredient.  I’ve put “About 700g of chicken mince” because if you buy it prepacked and it happens to be 100g more or less, it doesn’t matter, throw it all in.  Same with the breasts.

When you tip it out there will be a certain amount of jelly surrounding the terrine.  You will probably want to throw this away, although our golden retriever thought it was quite delicious mixed in with his boring dry biscuits for dinner!

Chicken Terrine with Herbs and Pink Peppercorns

5-8 slices of prosciutto or pancetta (enough to line your terrine)
About 700g chicken breast meat
About 700g chicken mince
1 small onion or a couple of shallots, very finely chopped
1 cup cream
1 egg
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 Tbs pink peppercorns
3-4 Tbs finely chopped herbs (I used a mixture of parsley and marjoram)
2 Tbs brandy

Preheat oven to 200°C.  Lightly oil the terrine dish, then line it on all sides with a single layer of pancetta or prosciutto.  Trim chicken breasts of any fat, then cut into 2-3cm cubes.  Use your food processor to chop the herbs and mix with the chicken breast, stirring to coat thoroughly and adding salt and pepper to taste. Mix chicken mince with remaining ingredients, using food processor to chop the onion or shallots.  When thoroughly mixed place half the mixture in the terrine, spreading evenly, then arrange all of the chicken breast cubes on top, then the rest of the mince mixture.  Press down well, cover terrine with the lid or with a piece of foil.  Place in a large dish such as a lasagne dish or a baking pan and pour in enough boiling water to come halfway up the sides of the terrine dish.  Bake for an hour, then remove from the oven, cool thoroughly, then refrigerate overnight.  Some terrines need to be weighted overnight, but I found this didn’t need it.  To serve, loosen the terrine and tip out, then cut into slices.  If it’s difficult to remove, you might need to dip the bottom of the terrine into boiling water.  If liked, garnish with some extra pink peppercorns and serve with Sweet Mustard Sauce.

Cuts into about 10 thick slices.

Sweet Mustard Sauce
1 Tbs English mustard
1 Tbs Dijon mustard
1 Tbs grainy mustard
1 Tbs sugar
1 Tbs vinegar (white or cider)
3 Tbs cup olive oil

Place all ingredients in a jar with a lid and shake well.  Leave overnight for the sugar to dissolve.

Note: this mustard sauce goes very well with Gravlax for which I would add a couple of tablespoons of finely chopped dill and 3-4 Tbs mayonnaise (preferably home-made) to make the sauce less hot.

Sausage Rolls

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When I was growing up in England we always made sausage rolls for Christmas and other celebrations.  With bought puff pastry, they’re quick to make and everyone likes them.  If you want to freeze and store them, cook them for less time, then reheat either thawed, or straight from the freezer, when you need them. Great to have in the freezer when unexpected guests pop in for a drink over Christmas.

Sausage Rolls

3-4 sheets of bought puff pastry, thawed
1 egg, beaten
sesame seeds (optional)
Filling:
750g pork mince
2 cups breadcrumbs, made in the food processor using day old bread
1 small onion, peeled and finely chopped in the food processor
3 tsp dried mixed herbs
1 tsp salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 egg
plain flour for rolling

Preheat oven to 180°C.  Mix all ingredients for filling.  Cut pastry down the middle into two long rectangles.  Form filling into sausages by taking a handful and rolling on a floured surface.  Each sausage should be about 2cm in diameter and the length of a piece of pastry.  Place a sausage on each piece of pastry, dampen the long edge with water, seal with a fork, then cut into desired length – if you make them about 4cm long you will get 6 from each rectangle.  Place on trays lined with baking paper.  Brush with beaten egg, sprinkle if liked with sesame seeds, then bake for 25 minutes or until nicely browned.  Cool a bit on a cake rack, then serve while still warm with tomato sauce (ketchup) for dipping.  If liked you can bake them ahead until they are almost ready, then cool and keep in the fridge (for up to 2 days) or freezer (for up to 2 months) until needed.  They will only need to be heated up for a few minutes in a hot oven to serve.

Makes about 36 or so, depending on size

Note: puff pastry sheets in Australia are 25cm square.  If preferred you can buy puff pastry in a block and roll it out yourself.

Warm Salmon Salad with Red Nut Dressing

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Tonight we had a warm Salmon salad with an invented dressing I’ve called Red Nut Dressing. The salad is adaptable, so use whatever you have on hand, such as baby tomatoes, asparagus, rocket etc. A perfect dish for an early summer evening with a glass of chilled Sauvignon Blanc.

Warm Salmon Salad with Red Nut Dressing

4-6 cups mesclun (small salad leaves)
1 cup beansprouts, washed and dried
½ small red onion, thinly sliced
1 small red capsicum, seeded and thinly sliced
1 avocado peeled and sliced
2 salmon portions weighing about 180-200g each, skinned and boned
1 Tbs olive oil

Red Nut Dressing
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1/3 cup walnuts, blanched almonds or pine nuts
1 Tbs tomato paste
1 tsp dried oregano
1 tsp smoked paprika
2 tsp honey
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
½ cup vegetable oil e.g. canola
¼ cup red wine vinegar
salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

To make dressing place all ingredients in a food processor and process until chunky-smooth.  Tip into a jam jar with a lid.  Place salad ingredients except avocado and salmon in a salad bowl.  Meanwhile lightly season salmon and pan fry in the 1 Tbs olive oil until cooked to liking.  It won’t take more than about 3 minutes each side (depending on thickness) and is nicer if still pink in the middle. Cut salmon into chunks.  Shake dressing then add enough to the salad to moisten. Mix well and divide between two individual salad bowls.  Arrange the avocado slices and salmon chunks on top, then spoon over a little more dressing.  There will be some left over.

Serves 2

Notes: the walnuts need to be fresh otherwise they can be bitter.  If in doubt substitute almonds or pine nuts.  If preferred, leave the salmon in one piece and just place it on top.

Sticky Honey Chicken

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This weekend we went to Woodlands, our 46 hectare rural property at Hereford Hall, 40 minutes out of Braidwood, New South Wales.  Sometimes we invite friends or family to join us, but this weekend Matthew wanted to prepare the area around the house for planting a lawn and sow the seeds, so there was no time for socialising.

Browsing through this month’s Delicious magazine before we left, I read a letter from a reader which mentioned a recipe for Sticky Honey Chicken with Ginger and Garlic by Rick Stein. It had apparently appeared in the magazine many moons ago and the reader said it was so good she was still making it regularly.  I decided to find it on the internet, print off a copy and make it over the weekend.  Here is my slightly adapted version.  I cut out the olive oil – the chicken was fatty enough without it – and added fresh coriander as a garnish.  I also cut down a bit on the quantities in the glaze and used only chicken thighs, because I’m not mad about drumsticks.  The cayenne pepper gives the sauce a nice kick and any leftovers are nice cold.

Rick Stein’s Sticky Honey Chicken with Ginger and Garlic

8-12 chicken pieces – drumsticks, thighs etc, skin left on
juice of one small or ½ large lemon
1 tsp cayenne pepper
1 tsp salt
Glaze
1½ Tbs honey
2-3 cm fresh ginger, grated
2 Tbs HP sauce (I substituted BBQ sauce)
1 Tbs Worcestershire sauce
2 Tbs tomato sauce (ketchup)
1 Tbs tomato puree
2 Tbs red wine or cider vinegar
2 Tbs soy sauce
2  large garlic cloves, crushed
fresh coriander to garnish

Preheat oven to 200°C. Trim chicken of any excess fat or skin.  Place in a shallow ovenproof dish in one layer.  Sprinkle with lemon juice, cayenne pepper and salt. Turn chicken pieces until well coated. Cover and set aside while you mix the glaze.

Make glaze by mixing all ingredients together. Roast chicken for 15 minutes skin side up. Turn chicken pieces over, spoon over half the glaze and roast for another 15 minutes.  Turn over so they are skin side up again, spoon over remaining glaze and bake for a further 10-15 minutes or until nicely browned and cooked through.  Garnish with coriander. Serve with steamed rice, with a knob of butter added and a steamed green vegetable or green salad.

Serves 4-6

Mum’s Bread Pudding

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When I was growing up in England, my mother usually had a freshly-baked cake waiting for us when we arrived home from school.   Sometimes it was a butter cake, baked in a slab tin then iced with white icing and cut into rectangles with a glace cherry on each piece.  Sometimes it was drop scones (pikelets), which we ate with butter and golden syrup.  One of my favourites was bread pudding – quite different to bread and butter pudding, which uses cream and eggs and is served as a dessert.  Although it’s called a pudding, we ate it as a cake, still warm from the oven.  It’s an old recipe from World War 2, when nothing was wasted and many things, including eggs, were rationed.  For a modern twist use chocolate chips instead of the dried fruit or a combination of the two.

Mum’s Bread Pudding

9-10 slices stale bread
125g mixed dried fruit
1 Tbs mixed peel (optional)
1 egg
1/4 cup brown sugar
4 tsp mixed spice
2 heaped Tbs softened butter
2-3 Tbs white sugar

Soak bread in cold water for half an hour. Squeeze bread to expel as much water as possible, then beat with a fork to remove lumps. Mix all ingredients together and spread into a shallow baking tin about 20x30cm in size, lined with baking paper.  Bake at 180°C for a good hour or until nicely browned. Sprinkle liberally with white sugar, cut into squares and serve warm.