Millefoglie di Melanzane

We recently spent a week in Sicily where we hired a car and drove from Palermo to Patti, Taormina, Syracuse and back to Palermo. We spent a couple of days in each of these cities, soaking up the history and visiting some amazing churches and ancient monuments in the area. I won’t go into details of where to stay and what to do – there’s plenty of information on Trip Advisor and we found most of our accommodation on Airbnb.

Lots of windy roads and a few crazy drivers made the driving something of a challenge. The weather was considerably hotter than we had expected for mid-September, so we avoided sight-seeing in the middle of the day. Nonetheless we had a great time and would definitely recommend a trip to this part of Italy.

On the whole, the food in Sicily is good, especially if you’re a fan of pizzas and pasta. Finding good places to eat other dishes was more of a challenge. Everything we ordered which involved eggplants (aubergines) was delicious – stuffed eggplant, capponata (an Italian version of ratatouille with eggplant as the main ingredient) and eggplant fritters to name a few.

Our favourite city was Syracuse, especially the old city located on the island of Ortigia. Our favourite restaurant in Syracuse was Notre Dame where we ate outside enjoying the balmy evening weather. This bistro is run by an enthusiastic young couple and serves an interesting menu including this delectable Millefoglie di Melanzane – a layered Eggplant Terrine. It was so good we went back twice and on the second occasion the chef gave me the recipe.

Millefoglie di Melanzane

Canola or a mild-flavoured olive oil
2 large eggplants or 3 smaller ones
400g red capsicum (peppers)
2 eggs
2 sheets gelatine, soaked in water or 3 tsp powdered gelatine
Salt and pepper to taste

Cut capsicum into quarters and remove stalks and seeds. Cook in boiling, salted water for 15-20 mins or until soft. While still hot place them in a food processor with the eggs, gelatine, salt and pepper and process until smooth.

Meanwhile slice eggplants thinly lengthwise, discarding the first cut which is just skin. Heat some oil in a large frying pan and fry the eggplant slices, about 3 at a time, until golden brown and cooked on both sides. Add more oil as required. Drain on paper towels.

Choose a silicone loaf pan which doesn’t need to be lined, or line a metal one with non-stick baking paper. Starting and ending with a layer of eggplant slices, layer the eggplant and red capsicum puree in the loaf pan. Cover and refrigerate overnight.

Using a serrated knife, cut terrine into 4-6 thick slices and serve with some lightly dressed rocket leaves.

Serves 4-6

No-Bake Raspberry Cheesecake

We were staying with Catherine in Newcastle for a few days when she said “Oh by the way, we’re invited to a BBQ lunch tomorrow and we’re taking a dessert. What shall we make?”

We found cream cheese, cream and 2 punnets of raspberries in the fridge and a few other ingredients in the pantry. The result was this delicious no-bake cheesecake which was popular with the adults and kids alike.

Make this the day before serving.

IMG_0695300g white chocolate
500g Philadelphia-style cream cheese (at room temp)
300ml thick cream
3 Tbs caster sugar
1 cup fresh or frozen (thawed) raspberries
½ cup red jam (preferably raspberry)
About 12 sweet biscuits or sponge fingers
To serve:
1-2 cups fresh raspberries
Honey to drizzle

Melt chocolate in a bowl over simmering water. In another bowl, with electric beaters, beat cream cheese, cream and sugar until smooth. Add melted chocolate and mix well.

Line a loaf tin with plastic wrap, leaving a generous overhang. With a fork, mash 1 cup raspberries with the jam on a plate. Spread half the cream cheese mixture in the loaf tin. Spread the berry mixture over the top. Then spread the rest of the cream cheese mixture over the jam mixture. Arrange a single layer of biscuits or sponge fingers over the surface, pushing them in slightly – this will be the base. Rectangular or square ones are easier than round ones. Bring excess plastic wrap over the top to cover, then refrigerate overnight.

No-Bake Raspberry Cheesecake

To serve, tip cheesecake onto serving plate and remove plastic. Arrange raspberries over the top and drizzle with honey.

Serves 12

Variation: use strawberries instead of raspberries

Rhubarb and Strawberry Crisp

You have to add quite a bit of sugar to rhubarb to make it palatable. But a friend told me recently that she cooks it with a little salt instead of sugar and eats it with Greek yoghurt.

So as we had rhubarb in the garden I decided to experiment. I mixed all the rhubarb pieces with a little melted butter (or you could use olive oil) then rolled half in some raw sugar and arranged them on a baking sheet lined with baking paper. I then added a little salt to the remaining rhubarb, mixed it well and arranged the sticks on the other half of the baking sheet. I baked them in a hot oven for about 15 mins or until they were “al dente”.

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The sweet ones were, as you would expect, quite sweet and delicious served with meringues and whipped cream. Interestingly the salty ones were not unsweet – the salt having brought out the natural sweetness of the fruit. Serve for breakfast or dessert with thick Greek yoghurt and a drizzle of honey if you need more sweetness. They would also go well as a garnish for duck. chicken or pork.

My third experiment was to cook the rhubarb with some fruit cordial such as Ribena – an idea I read somewhere once and filed away in my head. The result was a delicious ruby red compote. Rhubarb and strawberries go well together, so I used the compote to make a tasty variation on a traditional rhubarb crumble.

500g rhubarbunnamed (1)
½ cup blackcurrant or raspberry cordial (see note)
1 punnet strawberries
125g butter
4 Tbs brown sugar
4 Tbs self-raising flour
4 Tbs rolled oats
4 Tbs slivered or flaked almonds
1 tsp vanilla essence

Wash and trim rhubarb and cut into 2- 3cm lengths. Place in a bowl, add the cordial and mix. Cover and microwave for 5 mins or until cooked but not mushy. Meanwhile wash and hull strawberries and cut them into quarters. Grease a small round or oblong pudding dish. Mix strawberries with rhubarb and spread over base. Melt butter then mix in sugar, flour, oats, nuts and vanilla. Spoon evenly over the fruit, using a fork to close any gaps and give an even covering. Can be made ahead to this stage.

Pre-heat oven to 180°C. Bake for 25 mins or until golden brown. Serve warm with vanilla ice cream, cream or labneh flavoured with a little icing sugar and a few drops of vanilla essence.

Serves 4-6

Notes: if preferred double the rolled oats and leave out the nuts or double the nuts and leave out the oats. Instead of using fruit cordial to cook the rhubarb, use a little water and sugar to taste.

Chocolate and Ginger Cheesecake

Chocolate and Ginger CheesecakeWith a food processor this dessert is quick to make. Really chocolatey and not too sweet.

Crust:
125g Ginger Nut biscuits
50g butter
Filling:
250g mascarpone or sour cream
500g ricotta cheese
2 eggs
2-3 Tbs sugar, to taste
150g dark chocolate, melted in microwave
2-3 Tbs crystallised ginger, chopped
To serve:
Labneh
Icing sugar
Crystallised ginger or stem ginger in syrup, chopped

Pre-heat oven to 170°C. Place biscuits in food processor and process until fine. Melt butter in microwave, mix in biscuit crumbs then tip into a 20cm (8″) springform pan which has been greased and bottom lined with baking paper. Press the mixture evenly over the base of the tin. Bake for 10 mins.

While biscuit crust is cooking make filling. Wipe out the food processor. Place all ingredients except ginger in processor and mix till well combined, stopping to scrape down the sides halfway. Add chopped ginger and process briefly, just to combine.

When ready remove biscuit base from the oven tip in the filling and smooth the top. Return to the oven for 30 mins or until just set, but still a bit wobbly when shaken. Cool cheesecake, then refrigerate several hours or overnight.

Dust the top of the cheesecake with icing sugar. Serve with Labneh or whipped cream, with some chopped ginger and a little icing sugar mixed in.

Serves 10-12

Kheema with Peas

When we had a house full of kids I made recipes using minced beef all the time. Lasagne, spaghetti bolognese, shepherd’s pie – they are all great ways to feed a family with just half a kilo of mince. Now there’s just the two of us I only buy mince occasionally – otherwise we’d be forever eating leftovers!

This recipe was posted recently by Jill Dupleix, a well-known food writer in Australia. I love anything with peas so I decided to make it, adjusting the quantities to go with half a kilo of mince rather than the 750g she used.

It’s very quick to make and sure to be a hit with all the family.

Kheema with Peas1 Tbs oil
1 large onion, chopped
1 large clove garlic, crushed
500g minced lamb or beef
1 Tbs tomato paste
1 Tbs grated ginger
½ tsp each turmeric, coriander
¼ to ½ tsp chilli powder or flakes (optional)
1 tsp garam masala
Two cups water or stock
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 tsp sugar
2-3 cups frozen peas
To serve:
Chopped fresh coriander
Steamed Rice
Indian bread such as Roti
Plain yoghurt

Heat oil in a large frying pan and cook onion and garlic until soft but not brown. Add meat and cook for 5 mins, breaking it up as you go, until browned. Add remaining ingredients except peas and simmer for 20 mins. Add peas and cook for a further 5-10 mins, or until peas are cooked and Kheema is thick.

Sprinkle with chopped coriander and serve with rice, bread and plain yoghurt on the side. Warm the Indian bread by heating for a minute or so on each side in a dry frying pan over moderate heat.

Serves 4

Variations: use a drained can of beans or chick peas instead of the green peas.

Cubanos

We recently watched a movie called Chef starring Jon Favreau who was also the writer and director.

Favreau plays an amiable chef who works in a high-end restaurant in Los Angeles. The owner of the restaurant – a controlling, nasty piece of work played by Dustin Hoffman – forces the chef to cook dated dishes he doesn’t want to cook and they end up getting a very bad review.

Encouraged by his Cuban ex-wife the chef quits his job and starts a mobile food truck business with a friend, selling Cuban fast food. It’s a huge success, the chef reconnects with his 10 year old son, remarries his gorgeous ex-wife and everyone lives happily ever after.

The toasted sandwiches called “Cubanos” looked so delicious I decided to do some research and make them for Café Cat. They’re pretty high in cholesterol so I wouldn’t recommend eating them every day!

Cubanos were often eaten for lunch by workers in sugar mills and cigar factories in Cuba in the late 1800s. They are now popular in various parts of the United States, especially Miami.

In the movie they made them with Cuban bread, which looked like a wide baguette called a Flute in France. Any roast pork will do, but if you want authentic Cubanos make the Cuban version below.

I once watched Nigella Lawson make toasted sandwiches in a frying pan with a chopping board and a weight on top. I couldn’t help wondering why she didn’t jusr buy a proper sandwich press. They aren’t expensive and allow you to make toasted sandwiches with any kind of bread or wrap.

Cubanos

Baguettes or large bread rolls
Sliced roast pork (see below)
Sliced ham
Sliced Swiss cheese
Sliced dill pickles
Your favourite mustard
Melted butter

Split baguettes lengthwise and cut into sandwich lengths – about 15cm – or split the bread rolls. Heat up a sandwich press until hot. On one side of the sandwich place a layer of ham, a layer of sliced pork, a layer of sliced cheese and then a few sliced pickles. Spread mustard generously on the other half, then stick the sandwich together. Brush both sides with melted butter, place in sandwich press, close lid and cook until the bread is golden brown and cheese is melting. Serve immediately.

Cuban Roast Pork

2-2½ kg pork shoulder roast
4 tsp salt
1 cup lemon, lime or Seville orange juice
1 bay leaf
3 tsp oregano
3 tsp ground cumin
15-20 cloves garlic, depending on size, peeled

Stab meat all over with a sharp knife to make deep holes.  In a food processor or blender blend salt, fruit juice, bay leaf, oregano and cumin. Pour over the pork and rub in well, then cover and refrigerate overnight.

Next day remove pork from fridge and let come to room temperature for a good hour. Preheat oven to 140°C, tip off the marinade and reserve. Roast meat, uncovered for 4-5 hours or until well done. Baste often with the reserved marinade and turn occasionally. Remove from the oven and put the pork on a plate or cutting board. Cover loosely with foil and leave to rest. This pork is enough to feed a crowd with Cubanos.

Lemon Drizzle Cake Salvation Creek

As we were heading off to Europe last year for an extended holiday my friend Karen lent me a few good books.

We thoroughly enjoyed The House at Salvation Creek, a delightful memoir by Susan Duncan, but soon realised that it’s actually a sequel to her first book. So when we got back I borrowed the first one, Salvation Creek, from the local library.

Pittwater, where the narrative takes place, is described by Wikipedia as “a tide-dominated drowned valley estuary 40 km north of Sydney.” Duncan’s descriptions of the native flora and fauna are exceptional. A friend in Denmark to whom I recommended the books said “Susan Duncan brought some warm Australian sunshine into the bleak, grey days of a Danish winter.”

Duncan’s relationship with her ageing mother is something many readers will relate to. And of course I loved all the references to what she was cooking. This is her recipe for Lemon Drizzle Cake. Very easy and a real crowd pleaser.

Zest of 1 large lemon
250g caster sugar
250g butter (at room temp)unnamed
4 large eggs
250g SR flour
Pinch salt
1 level tsp baking powder
Syrup:
Juice of 1 large lemon
150g sugar

Preheat oven to 160ºC and prepare a round or square cake pan. I used a 22cm (9″) square silicone pan, so there was no need to grease and line the bottom with baking paper, which you need to do with a metal pan.

Place lemon zest and sugar in food processor and blitz for 1-2 mins. Add butter and mix for a minute then add the eggs, sifted flour, baking powder and salt. Mix for 1- 2 mins then stop to scrape down the sides and mix for another minute. Scrape into cake pan, spread out evenly and bake for 30-40 mins or until golden and well risen. Test cake with a toothpick inserted in the middle, which should come out clean, but don’t overcook the cake. Remove from oven and pour over the syrup while hot, using a knife to distribute it evenly. If liked serve garnished with flowers e.g. potato vine as in photo.

Syrup: heat lemon juice and sugar together in a small saucepan to form a syrup.

Serve for afternoon tea or as a dessert with whipped cream and some berries. Duncan suggests mixing some icing sugar and passionfruit pulp into the cream.

Serves 16

Notes: The original recipe says to cook the cake for 30-35 mins but mine took 40. The recipe can be doubled and it makes very good cupcakes. She says it freezes well.

 

 

Roast Chicken with Jerusalem Artichokes and Lemon

The Jerusalem artichokes from our veggie garden are ready to use, so I went through some cookbooks looking for new ways to use them. This easy and delicious recipe comes from Jerusalem by one of my favourite chefs, Yotam Ottolenghi and his partner Sami Tamimi.

I’ve made a few slight adjustments. The original recipe uses fresh tarragon which I didn’t have, so I used marjoram which grows profusely in our garden and doesn’t get hit so early by the frost. It worked well. If you don’t have any saffron add a couple of teaspoons of turmeric. Ottolenghi says to peel the artichokes but it’s such a fiddly job we just scrub them and trim off any black bits.

If you don’t have Jerusalem artichokes substitute parsnips, pumpkin, sweet potatoes or ordinary potatoes.

500g Jerusalem artichokes
8 chicken thighs, skin-on, trimmed
Juice of 1 lemonDSCF1116
12 garlic cloves, peeled and sliced
12 shallots, peeled & halved lengthwise
1 lemon, halved lengthwise & sliced thinly
1 tsp saffron threads
¼ cup olive oil
¾ cup water
1½ Tbs pink peppercorns (optional – see note)
1 Tbs fresh thyme leaves or 2 tsp dried
2 Tbs fresh marjoram or tarragon, chopped
1 to 2 tsp salt, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper
To serve:
Extra chopped herbs
Extra lemon juice

Scrub and trim the artichokes, then cut into even chunks about 2cm thick. Place in a saucepan and cover with water. Bring to the boil and simmer for 10 mins, drain. Place all ingredients in a large mixing bowl and mix well with hands. Cover and leave to marinate for 1-2 hours or overnight.

Preheat oven to 220°C. Tip chicken and marinade into a rectangular roasting tin (mine is non-stick) and spread out evenly. Cover with foil and roast for half an hour. Remove foil, baste chicken with the juices, then roast for a further 15 mins or until cooked and nicely browned.

Serve garnished with some extra chopped fresh herbs and a squeeze of lemon juice.

Serves 4

Note: pink peppercorns are not really peppercorns at all (look them up on Google if you’re interested). You can buy them in specialty shops such as The Essential Ingredient. They go well with smoked salmon, Gravlax, chicken and fish dishes.

Tomahawk Steak with Whisky-Glazed Carrots

Aldi had Tomahawk steaks on special so I bought one. Never having cooked this cut of beef before, I had a look on Google and learnt that it’s the rib-eye or Scotch fillet with the bone left in.

There was a fair amount of fat on the meat so I decided to cook it simply, on a very hot BBQ, in order to render most of it off and crisp up the rest. The result was delicious and very tender.

Whisky-Glazed Carrots – an old recipe from the 1970s – and some good mustard completed the meal. We didn’t feel the need for potatoes or other accoutrements which might have detracted from the simple combination of succulent savoury beef with sweet carrots.

After a week of abstinence, a very good bottle of Padthaway Shiraz we had been saving for a special occasion, or in this case no occasion at all, went down a treat.

Tomahawk Steak with Whisky-Glazed Carrots1 Tomahawk Steak weighing 1.3-1.5kg
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
500g carrots cut into sticks
Juice and grated rind 2 oranges
1 tsp sugar or honey
2 Tbs whisky
Salt and pepper to taste
1 Tbs butter
Snipped chives
To serve: your favourite mustard

Pre-heat BBQ on maximum for 10 minutes until very hot. For medium-rare, cook steak for 7-8 minutes each side, then a further 7-8 minutes each side. In addition, cook for about 5 minutes on the curved long side of the steak – you may need to hold it in place with some tongs while it cooks on this third side. Place on cutting board, cover loosely with foil and rest for 10-15 mins.

Meanwhile cook the carrots. Place in a saucepan with the orange rind and juice, sugar or honey, salt and pepper to taste. Cover and cook for 10 minutes or until almost cooked. Remove lid, add whisky and butter and cook for a few minutes more, shaking pan often, until liquid has been absorbed and carrots are just cooked and slightly glazed. Add chives and serve.

Slice meat downwards, across the grain and serve with mustard and carrots.

Serves 4-6

Prawn Bisque

I’m what you might call an abstemious cook, thanks to Scottish genes from my paternal grandmother and waste not want not mentality from my mother, who spent the Second World War in Malta with strict rationing.

Throwing away food – unless it’s gone off – is something I can’t bear to do. A few tired looking vegies in the bottom of the fridge? In no time you can convert them into a delicious cream of vegetable soup. My kids tell me they’ve inherited this trait, so they must be strong genes.

On the shelves of a Bed and Breakfast in rural France I once found a very old hand-written recipe book. I copied out lots of recipes, including this delicious soup made entirely from prawn heads and tails. I had always hated throwing out juicy prawn heads and tails and since acquiring this recipe I don’t have to.

Next time you buy some big fat prawns – cooked or raw – save the heads and tails in a bag in the freezer and keep adding to them. For every kilo of prawns you usually end up with about half a kilo of heads and tails. I know there are rules about refreezing things, but if you use very fresh prawns and get them into the freezer ASAP you won’t have a problem. I’ve been doing it for years and I’m still here to tell the tale. If you prefer not to freeze them, you can always make the bisque straight away, but I never seem to have enough prawn heads when I have time to cook. The recipe isn’t all that time-consuming, but it’s not something I would do on a mid-week evening while trying to prepare dinner.

When you have enough in the bag and a quiet weekend make this scrumptious soup. It will keep in the fridge for 2-3 days, or can be frozen for several months. Freeze it without the cream, then add the cream when you thaw and reheat it. Serve it as a soup or as a sauce for scallops, fish, prawns or prawn-filled wontons.

Once when we were living in Chile we had a power cut which lasted two days. The only thing Matthew was worried about was getting the Prawn Bisque across town and into the custody of a friend whose freezer was still working.

This is one of my top ten recipes of all times – just as good as a seafood bisque seved in a top French restaurant – so do try it.

Prawn BisqueBetween 1kg and 2kg prawn heads and tails
125g butter
1 clove garlic, crushed
2 onions, chopped
1 cup flour
2-3 carrots depending on size, chopped
2 sticks celery, chopped
750ml white wine
½ cup brandy
1 cup tomato paste
Water
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
500ml cream
To serve:
Cream
Croutons (optional)
Chopped parsley

With a sharp knife or cleaver, cut prawn heads in two. Heat butter in a very large heavy-based saucepan, add prawn heads and tails and cook, stirring, for about 5 minutes. Add onions and garlic and continue to cook, stirring until softened. Add flour and stir for a minute or two until cooked. Add carrots, celery, wine, brandy, tomato paste, salt and pepper and enough water to cover everything.

Simmer covered for between one and one and a half hours, stirring often (especially the bottom so it doesn’t stick), pushing down with a potato masher to help remove all the flavour from the prawns and topping up the water level as it evaporates.

Strain soup through a sieve in batches, pressing down hard on solids then discarding them. To serve, reheat with cream. Adjust seasoning and serve garnished with a swirl of cream, croutons (if using – I didn’t in the photo) and chopped parsley.

Serves 12

Notes:

  • To make a hearty main course soup, serve in large bowls and add cubes of oven roasted pumpkin, whole cooked prawns, chopped parsley and croutons.
  • Before adding cream you can freeze this soup in one container. To serve, thaw, reheat with the cream and adjust seasoning.
  • You can also freeze it in several smaller plastic containers to use as a delicious sauce with home-made seafood ravioli, pan fried white fish or scallops.