Chicken Lady Chicken

While living in Paris for four years I noticed several differences in the shopping, eating and cooking habits of the French, compared with ours.

They generally don’t stock up on food in big supermarkets. Living in an apartment, as almost everyone does in big cities like Paris, makes getting groceries from the supermarket into your home a real challenge. With limited parking and, for some Parisians, no elevator, it’s much easier to shop at the local markets every few days. Buy what you need, eat it fresh, then go and buy more. Little trolleys on wheels are perfect for shopping this way. An added deterrent to buying up big is that most Paris apartments have tiny kitchens with limited cupboard and freezer space.

I reckon one of the reasons most French women stay slim is that they don’t eat a big meal every evening. Several svelte French friends told me that during the week their husbands went out for a three course lunch and were quite happy with something very light in the evening. Women who work do the same. So as I was heading home to cook our main meal of the day, they were going home to have “un petit yaourt” or “une tartine” – a slice of toast with something on it.

I also noticed that the French don’t get stuck into baguettes and French cheeses quite the way we do. I’ve watched lithesome French friends make one slice of bread last through several courses, used as required to push food onto their fork. The cheese course is always served before the dessert and my svelte French friends take only a small sliver of each. French cheeses are marvellous, but they are also high in calories and cholesterol.

The French also tend to be more abstemious when it comes to wine consumption, as we noted when we cleared up the empties after a dinner party for mainly French guests and compared it with the week before when we had hosted mainly Aussies.

While they regularly eat out, our French friends like to entertain family and close friends. With the limitations of a small kitchen and an equally small oven, dessert often comes from the local patisserie. With such a wonderful array to choose from, why bother cooking? There are of course exceptions. I have several French friends who make wonderful cakes and desserts, using recipes inherited from their mothers and grandmothers.

Food markets pop up all over Paris in regular spots, once or twice a week. The twice-weekly market in Boulevard de Grenelle was less than five minutes walk from where we lived. Every Wednesday and Sunday from seven in the morning until lunch time the market sells fresh fruit and vegetables, cheese, meat, fish and more to a bustling crowd of mostly French customers.

On Sundays the rotisserie chickens and roast potatoes sold at the markets are popular to take home for lunch. Today’s recipe comes from well-known cook and food writer David Lebovitz who has been living in Paris for over 20 years. He managed to persuade the chicken lady at his local market to part with her recipe. Hence the name Chicken Lady Chicken. He uses the marinade for one chicken, but I found it’s enough for two. She uses white wine but red wine or even sherry is a good substitute.

1 or 2  x 1.5kg (3 lb) chickens
Marinade:
3 cloves garlic, crushed
1½ tsp salt
2 Tbs olive oil
2 Tbs lemon juice
2 Tbs wine or sherry
1 Tbs soy sauce
2½ tsp harissa, Sriracha or other chilli paste
2 tsp Dijon or other mustard
2 tsp honey

Remove backbone from the chicken(s) by cutting along each side with a pair of poultry shears. Place chicken breast side down on cutting board and press hard with the heel of your hand to flatten it out as much as possible, then repeat on the other side. Loosen the skin a bit with your finger so the marinade can get in under the skin.

Mix all ingredients for marinade and pour over the chicken(s), rubbing it in and pushing it under the skin. Marinate for 1 to 2 days in the fridge, covered, turning from time to time. Levovitz does this in a plastic bag, but I used a shallow dish.

Preheat the oven to 200°C. Place chickens in a roasting pan breast side down. Cover loosely with aluminum foil then place a heavy weight on top. I used two bricks, one for each chicken. Lebovitz cooks his chicken for a total of 45 mins but I think it needs a bit longer. Roast for half an hour, then remove the brick(s) and foil and turn the chickens over, basting thoroughly. Roast for a further half hour or until chickens are well browned and cooked through.

Carve the chicken(s) and serve with roast potatoes and a salad.

Each chicken serves 4-6

Hot Smoked Salmon & Pea Salad

Peas are pretty much the only vegetable I always buy frozen. We don’t grow our own peas as they would take up too much room in our vegetable garden. In Australia you rarely see fresh peas in the supermarkets or vegetable shops.

To be honest I reckon frozen peas aren’t at all bad. Not the same as fresh peas but a pretty good substitute.

This tasty salad will appeal to fans of peas as it’s the main ingredient.

3 cups frozen peas
250-300g hot smoked salmon
1 clove garlic, crushed
A handful of chopped fresh parsley or mint or a mixture
4 radishes, sliced then halved
80g soft goat’s cheese (I used Danish feta) crumbled
12 cocktail tomatoes, halved or quartered, depending on size
2-3 spring onions, finely sliced
2 Tbs olive oil
Juice of 1 lemon or ½ a large lemon
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Cook peas in boiling salted water for 4 minutes, then drain. Place in a large bowl with the salmon, broken into flakes, skin discarded. Add remaining ingredients, mix and serve.

Serves 4-6

Pan Fried Chorizo, Octopus & Sweet Potatoes with Chimichurri & Aioli

This recipe was inspired by a dish being served by my favourite lunch time bistro in Canberra,

Deakin & Me is in my suburb which is called Deakin, and it ticks all the boxes. The food is interesting, healthy and delicious. The staff are friendly and efficient and they don’t mind splitting the bill for groups. They only do breakfast, brunch and lunch and the place is always full.

I didn’t order this dish, but one of my friends sitting next to me did. I looked delicious and she confirmed that it was. I made a note of the ingredients in order to make it at home.

Cooked, vacuum packed octopus can be found in Costco and I used sweet potatoes instead of ordinary potatoes. Chimichurri is a South American salsa. Any leftover can be served to add a bit of zing to steak, chicken, fish or fried eggs.

1 sweet potato (see variations)
2 tsp paprika
200g cooked octopus, sliced
1 chorizo sausage, sliced
4 slices sourdough bread, lightly toasted
4 eggs
Olive oil
Aioli:
½ cup mayonnaise (preferably home made)
2-3 tsp lemon juice
1 clove garlic, crushed
Chimichurri:
2 Tbs finely chopped parsley
1 small red chilli, very finely diced (with or without the seeds)
½ cup olive oil
2 Tbs red wine vinegar
Salt and pepper to taste
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 tsp dried oregano or 1 Tbs fresh oregano or marjoram, chopped
¼ of a red onion, finely diced
Pinch of sugar

Make the Aioli by mixing the ingredients together. Make the Chimichurri by mixing the ingredients together. Don’t use a food processor you will end up with mush.

Peel the sweet potato and cut it into 2cm cubes. Mix with a tablespoon of olive oil, the paprika and salt to taste. Cook in an air fryer or a hot oven (spread out on a paper lined tray) until lightly browned and cooked.

Heat a little olive oil in a large frying pan. Add the octopus and chorizo and stir fry for 5-8 minutes or until the chorizo is lightly browned. Add some of the sweet potato cubes so there’s about the same amount of them as of the chorizo and octopus. You will have some sweet potato left over. Stir for a minute or two to combine.

Meanwhile, in another frying pan, fry the eggs in a little olive oil (serve them sunny side up) and toast the sourdough.

Divide the octopus, chorizo and sweet potato amongst the slices of toast, with the fried egg on top or on the side. Add a good dollop of aioli and a few spoonfuls of chimichurri to the plates.

Serve immediately.

Serves 4

Variations: use cooked ordinary potatoes cut into chunks instead of sweet potatoes.

Tortilla French Toasts with Garlicky Mushrooms

Topped with a delicious mix of mushrooms, garlic and cream, this makes a quick and tasty lunch or supper. If preferred serve it on toasted sourdough or Turkish bread, instead of the Tortilla French Toasts.

Tortilla French Toasts:
1 egg
2 Tbs cream
2 tortillas from a packet
1 Tbs olive oil
Mushrooms:
2 Tbs butter (or 1 Tbs butter and 1 Tbs olive oil)
250g mushrooms, quartered or sliced
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 Tbs dry sherry (optional)
1 Tbs Dijon mustard
½ cup cream or sour cream
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
2 Tbs finely chopped parsley

Beat egg and cream in a wide shallow dish. Submerge the tortillas in this mixture and turn to coat thoroughly. Heat a little oil in a frying pan and cook the tortillas, one at a time, on both sides until golden, then place on two serving plates.

Meanwhile in another frying pan, heat the butter (or butter and oil) and cook the mushrooms for 5-10 minutes or until cooked and starting to brown, stirring often. Add garlic and cook, stirring, for a minute or so. Add sherry, mustard, cream and seasoning to taste. Cook, stirring, until sauce has thickened. Spoon onto the tortillas and garnish with parsley. If liked, drizzle with a little extra cream as shown in the photo.

To make a more substantial meal, serve with a rocket, parmesan and pine nut salad, lightly dressed with olive oil and balsamic vinegar.

Serves 2

Quinoa Salad

This healthy quinoa salad can be made in no time and adapted to include what you have on hand. I used some Tri-Colour Quinoa from Costco, but ordinary white quinoa will do. Serve this salad alone or with grilled chicken or fish.

2 cups cooked and drained quinoa (measure after cooking)
Finely grated rind and juice of 1 large lemon
¼ cup olive oil
1 Tbs honey
1 tsp mustard (Dijon or English)
¾ tsp salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 can chickpeas, rinsed and drained
1 Lebanese cucumber thickly sliced and quartered
½ cup lightly toasted nuts (pistachios, pine nuts, cashews)
½ cup crumbled feta cheese (or substitute a creamy goat cheese)
1/3 cup thinly sliced red onion
1/3 cup coarsely chopped parsley
½ cup coarsely chopped fresh mint

Mix all ingredients together in a salad bowl and serve.

Serves 4

Variations: add some halved cocktail tomatoes, small broccoli or cauliflower florets. Use sliced spring onions instead of red onion. If you like things a bit spicy, add one small red chilli, seeds removed and finely sliced. Add some sweetcorn kernels, fresh, frozen or canned. Add drained and rinsed canned beans instead of chickpeas.

Loaded Baked Sweet Potatoes

After a hard class at the gym, my friend Allison gave me this recipe as we sipped our almond milk, extra-hot, cappuccinos. She said she had found it on Instagram and it was delicious, which it indeed was.

2 sweet potatoes (4 if small)
Extra virgin olive oil
½ tsp dried sage or 2 tsp fresh sage, finely chopped
Salt
Chickpeas:
1 can chickpeas, rinsed and drained
1 Tbs olive oil
1 tsp garlic salt
Topping:
1/3 cup pecan nuts
2 sprigs fresh rosemary, chopped
1 tsp olive oil
1 tsp maple syrup
good pinch of salt
1/3 cup cranberries or dried cherries
¼ cup goat’s cheese or creamy feta
1/3 cup rocket, baby spinach or shredded larger spinach leaves (in photo)
Dressing:
1 Tbs tahini
1½ Tbs American-style yellow mustard
1 tsp balsamic vinegar
¼ tsp garlic salt
Freshly ground black pepper
2 tsp water
Garnish:
Balsamic glaze and olive oil to drizzle around

Line two oven trays with baking paper and preheat the oven to 200°C. Wash and dry the sweet potatoes, brush them with oil and sprinkle them with salt. Place them on one of the trays and bake for 30 mins. Move the sweet potatoes over a bit and tip the rinsed and drained chickpeas onto the tray next to them. Return to the oven for 10 minutes, then drizzle the chickpeas with the oil and sprinkle with the garlic salt. Mix them a bit, then return to the oven for 10 more minutes.

In a bowl, miix the pecans with the rosemary, oil, maple syrup and salt. Bake on the other paper-lined tray for 6-7 minutes then cool.

Roughly chop the cranberries and place in a bowl with the crumbled goat cheese and the finely shredded rocket or spinach. When the pecan nuts are cool, roughly chop them and add to the bowl.

Place all ingredients for the dressing in a jar with a lid and shake vigorously. If the tahini is a bit stiff, mash it with a fork before adding it to the jar.

To serve, cut sweet potatoes in half lengthwise and place in serving dish. Press down on each half with a fork to mash the flesh a bit. Tip the chickpeas over the sweet potatoes, dividing equally. Drizzle with the dressing, then top with the topping mix. If liked, garnish with a drizzle of balsamic glaze and olive oil.

Serves 4

Lobster or Prawn Benedict

This recipe makes a breakfast, light lunch or dinner fit for a king.

If you live somewhere you can buy lobster or crayfish for a reasonable price then use that. If not, prawns work well in this recipe. Instead of seafood try using ham or some steamed chopped spinach.

1 brioche bun, split in two or 2 thick slices brioche loaf
150g shelled lobster or prawn meat, roughly chopped
2 large eggs, poached
Snipped chives
Quick Hollandaise sauce:
60g butter
2 egg yolks
Lemon juice to taste (3-4 tsp)
Salt to taste
Pinch of cayenne pepper

While the brioche buns or slices are toasting and the eggs are poaching, make the sauce. Melt butter in a bowl or jug in the microwave. With a hand whisk, mix in the egg yolks, lemon juice, salt and cayenne. Zap in the microwave for  12-15 seconds, then whisk again vigorously. If it’s a bit too thick, whisk in a tablespoon of hot water. Don’t overcook it as you will end up with scrambled egg!

Place the toasted brioche on two warm serving plates. Spread some hollandaise sauce on each, then top with the lobster or prawn meat, divided in two. Arrange a poached egg on each serving, then spoon over more hollandaise and garnish with chives. If liked, arrange the other half of the toasted bun on the side of the plate.

Serve immediately.

Serves 2

Quick Olive Bread

This recipe is an adaptation of Irish Soda Bread. Made in the time it takes the oven to heat up, you can whip this up between morning coffee and Sunday lunch.

Served with home-made Gravlax and pickled vegetables (see below) it was delicious. Spread the bread with butter or mayonnaise, before topping with the gravlax or smoked salmon.

2 cups plain flour, sifted
2 tsp baking powder
1 tsp baking soda
1 Tbs lemon juice or vinegar
1½ cups plain yoghurt
1 Tbs chopped fresh rosemary
1 cup sliced olives (black or green or a mix)
1-2 tsp salt, to taste
1 Tbs each sunflower seeds and pepitas

Preheat oven to 180°C and line a baking tray with baking paper.

Mix all the ingredients together, except the seeds, in a mixing bowl. Mix until all the dry bits have been incorporated. With floured hands, form into a ball and place on the baking tray. Use hands to shape into a low flattish round as shown in photo. Sprinkle with the seeds and pat them on.

Bake for 45 minutes or until evenly browned. Cool then serve immediately. Any leftovers can be served next day, toasted.

Makes 1 loaf

Variation: use chopped sun dried tomatoes instead of olives or some of each.

Japanese Pickled vegetables: cut vegetables into two-bite pieces and pack into a clean large jar or 2-3 smaller ones – cauliflower florets, red capsicum strips, cucumber sticks, carrot sticks, chunks of fennel etc. Heat 1 cup each of sugar, water and cider or white wine vinegar in a saucepan. Stir to dissolve the sugar, then bring to the boil and pour over the vegetables. If liked add one or two whole red chillies, then cover with the lid. If you don’t have enough liquid to cover the vegetables, make a bit more, using equal quantities of sugar, water and vinegar. Keep for a few days before using. Store in the fridge.

Baked Pears with Blue Cheese, Walnuts & Honey

This year we have our first crop of pears. A delicious way to use pears when you can’t eat any more fresh is to bake them. This savoury baked dish makes a great starter or light meal, served with a rocket salad.

3 pears (some of mine were smaller so I used 4)
2-3 tsp olive oil
50g creamy blue cheese (e.g. Gorgonzola)
1/3 cup chopped walnuts or pecans
3-4 stalks fresh thyme, leaves removed and roughly chopped
1-2 Tbs honey
½ tsp Aleppo pepper (available from specialty shops)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Thyme sprigs to garnish

Preheat oven to 200°C. Cut pears in half lengthwise and remove core and seeds with a melon baller. Place in a baking dish in one layer, cut sides up. Drizzle with the olive oil, season with salt and pepper, then turn them over. Bake for 15 minutes.

Turn the pears over, so they are cut side up and stuff with the blue cheese, walnuts and thyme. Bake for 8-10 minutes. Drizzle with the honey and sprinkle with the Aleppo pepper. The Aleppo pepper is not essential, but it adds a bit of extra colour and flavour. Garnish with thyme sprigs and serve with a lightly dressed rocket salad.

Serves 3

Scotch Eggs in the Air Fryer

A hard boiled egg, wrapped in sausage meat, coated in breadcrumbs and deep fried becomes a Scotch egg.

There are various explanations regarding the origin of the name of these traditional British snacks. They were first mentioned in Britain in publications from the early 1800s, so they have been around for quite some time.

The advent of the air fryer makes cooking them so much easier and healthier. Instead of deep frying, just give them a quick spray with a can of oil before they go into the air fryer.

Served at room temperature they make a perfect addition to lunch boxes, summer buffets and picnics.

Serve with Spicy Tomato Sauce (recipe below) for dipping.

6 large eggs, hardboiled and peeled
600g pork sausages
1 very small onion, grated (optional)
1 tsp mixed dried herbs
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
2 eggs, beaten
1 cup (or maybe a bit more) panko breadcrumbs (or ordinary breadcrumbs)
Fresh herbs or thinly sliced spring onion to garnish
Spicy Tomato Dipping Sauce:
½ cup tomato ketchup
1 Tbs Worcestershire Sauce
1 clove garlic, crushed
2 Tbs vinegar
1 small onion, grated
1½ Tbs honey
½ tsp hot English mustard
2 tsp grated fresh ginger

While the eggs are boiling, remove the casings from the sausages and discard them. Mix the sausage meat with the onion, herbs, salt and pepper. Divide the mixture into six and flatten each portion into a circle about four inches (10cm) in diameter. Place an egg on each, wrap the sausage meat around the egg and pinch to close any holes an make a nice oval ball. Roll each one in beaten egg then breadcrumbs, patting them in to cover evenly. Can be made ahead to this point and kept refrigerated for up to several hours. My eggs were not very big so I hardboiled 7 rather than 6.

Place the Scotch eggs in an air fryer in one layer and preferably not quite touching. Spray lightly with oil then cook at 200°C for about 20 minutes. After 10 minutes turn them over and spray again.

Remove from air fryer when cooked and leave to cool. Serve cut in half, garnished with herbs or spring onion and with the sauce for dipping.

Makes 12 egg halves

Sauce: heat ingredients together in a saucepan, then cool. Use as a dipping sauce for Scotch eggs, sausage rolls and empanadas.